|
In this project, I illustrate the use of
photographs as you
learn to paint. Photographs are incredibly useful to work from for
several reasons: 1.) they will pose indefinitely without getting tired
or going bad and 2.) they have already been 'flattened' from 3-d to
2-d. This latter point is both a boon and a curse - using photos to
paint from can become a crutch. You really need to learn to draw from
life if you want to expand as an artist. Still, in your formative years
and even beyond, take advantage of the benefits of painting from
photos. Copying the Old Masters has long been a traditional
apprenticeship exercise for artists, and you can usually find art
students with sketchpads in most art exhibits today.
Keep our copyright issues in mind, however. The
painting that
I make in this project is for demonstration purposes only (and to
expand my own skills). I couldn't sell it even if someone wanted to buy
it from me - the statue that I portray here is the intellectual
property of the sculptor, and even the photograph I'm working from is
copyrighted by the photographer.
With that all said, I find the photo and this
statue, You
Can't Eat Gold, by sculptor Lorenzo Quinn, inspiring. I love shiny things, and
this golden apple and the hand that holds it are well nigh irresistable
to me. So I post the photo beside my easel and begin. (clicking on a
pic will open a larger version in a new window.)
|
|

Magazine photos are great for
beginners to
work from. Magazine covers are particularly good. They are
professionally lit and composed, and are typically uncluttered and easy
to sketch.
|

First cut at a sketch
|

Refined from previous. Altho'
the second
sketch looks okay here, it has major drawing defects that will become
clear later.
|
|
|
I can't wait to start on that apple. It's
too tempting
to put off another minute. (I'll talk about doing shiny metal in a
later page) and green highlights on the hand. |
| I start coloring and shading the hand. the
drawing
defects are becoming more apparent, but I still haven't noticed and go
cluelessly along with my work. I've decided to try to leave the
background blank this time. |
|
|
|
I blend the colors and the drawing problems
pop into
high relief. The little finger is abnormally long, and the hand
dimensions are distorted - from the knuckles to the heel of the hand is
far too long for human hands. (See how to
'debug' your drawing problems.) |
| I start nipping away at the heel of the
hand. I use a
stiff bristle brush to scrape away the pigment powder, then a soft
kneaded eraser to pull up as much of the pastel as I can. I also refine
the colors on the apple to make it shinier. (See future article on
shiny metallics.) |
|
|
|
I've cut away the part of the hand that
doesn't belong,
and trimmed back the pinky. More layers of color on the rest of the
hand, and more shading on the apple. You'll notice a ghost of the error
on the grey paper - you can never completely remove all the pigment. |
| I 'round' up the base of the thumb and the
heel of the
hand with highlights and add a ghost of a reflection of the pinky in
the apple. |
|
|
|
some greens and reds for shading, and some
highlights
on the cuticles to shape the fingertips. The pinky has been
repositioned a little bit lower than its original location. I cover up
the early error with white. |
| I like the way the white makes the hand pop
out of the
background so I place white around the rest of the hand. It nicely
delineates the negative space made by the pinky, ring finger and apple.
More shading on the body of the hand and the apple's reflections of the
fingers are improved. |
|
The painting as it now exists. I'm
not perfectly
sure I'm finished with this; the wimpy wrist needs beefing up and the
apple needs its stem. - some glazing of a soft blue on the hand might
make it appear more like a statue. But let's call it done for now.

|
|